Oman

Oman. Today is the Sultan’s Birthday, and thus Oman’s national day! Oman, yes, on the southeast coast of the Arabian peninsula. Oh, as well as the main part of Oman, there are two enclaves—Madha, and Musandam, separated from the main body of the country by Emirati territory.

Islam reached Oman during Muhammad’s lifetime, and by the mid-eighth century Omanis had developed Ibadhism, which remains the majority sect in Oman. I had to admit I don’t know much about the different branches of Islam—I read that Ibadhism is described as moderate conservatism, emphasising a mixture of austerity and peace. It’s going on my list of things I want to read more about.

Also, the Portuguese occupied Muscat for 140 years in the 16th-17th centuries. Apparently there are still remnants of their architectural style around the place. There were a few other intruders, but since the late 18th century the country has remained self-governing.

It was in 2003 that universal suffrage was granted for citizens over twenty-one. Prior to this, very Omanis could vote. The head of state is the sultan—a hereditary slot—but there is now also an elected advisory council. When the 2003 election took place, 74 percent of those registered votes, and of the 84 seats, two were filled by women. (That’s not a criticism—I think it’s a good thing that even in that first open election women were placed in positions of power.)

Yes, it’s mostly desert. Oh! I love a desert! It is, to be more specific, a gravel desert plain that covers most of central Oman. There are mountains in the north. The problem with desert countries? Water. There’s not a lot of renewable water resources, and most of this goes to agriculture. Soil salinity, beach pollution… Oh! water, water!

Today’s Omani poem is from A Crack in the Wall: New Arab Poetry. It’s by Saif al-Rahbi. Enjoy!

Steps

I walk, I feel under my feet
a sky, trembling with all its victims,
and on my head, an earth
that has stopped rotating.

I hear a thunder of steps behind me,
steps of people coming
from the past,
silent as if they are dead.
Past, retreat a while,
let me finish today’s walk.

—Saif al-Rahbi
from A Crack in the Wall: New Arab Poetry
translated from the Arabic by Abdulla as-Harrasi